Swiss Holidays: Lake Oeschinensee

After rising early again, we were disappointed to see that the clouds had not lifted. We showered and breakfasted anyway, then returned to the room to read and doze and not worry about the weather.

It was around 10 when we finally decided to take the risk and head out. It was quite a bit cooler today, and we could see our breath as we walked outside. Considering the unreliable state of my knees we decided to take another path going around the other side of the lake and simply turn around when it got too difficult.

Today's route was not as diverse as yesterday's, but the waterfalls were spectacular. We crossed at least four rushing falls on simple bridges, stopping on each one to look at the path carved into the stone by centuries of falling water.

After an hour and a half of hiking, and only a few minutes of light rain, our hunger and my knees convinced us to turn back. Funny how going down is slower than going up, but wincing with every step will do that to you.

We arrived at the hotel by mid afternoon and ordered big lunches. Spent more time lying about with books, planned tomorrow's trip to Lucern, and put in an order for a salad dinner. The kitchen closed at 6 p.m., and we knew we wouldn't be hungry by then.

Watched the cows in the rain for a while, then finally got bored enough to venture out again. We retraced our steps to the quiet spot on the lake we found on our first night and skipped stones in the placid silence of the water and forest.

As evening approached the light became rich and we spent a long time looking at the lake. Last year we declared Lake Como to be the most beautiful place we'd seen, but this year Lake Oeschinensee takes the crown.

Just as I was packing up the camera, David spotted a group of animals - upon consulting the guidebook later we think they were likely ibex - walking past the closest waterfall. I scrambled back with the camera, but they were lost to the woods. We walked over to where he thought they'd be, but saw no sign of them.

As David was investigating a ridge I looked down to the shore of the lake and saw a fox trotting along the same path. When David returned we decided it might be a nice hour for wildlife spotting. The rain had started again, so we sat on a wooden bench beneath a sturdy pine and sat quietly, looking at the lake and hoping for more animal crossings.

Of course a watched pot never boils, and we saw no more than little birds and wet hikers. But the peace and quiet of the place was well worth the stay, and we regretted having to leave.

In the hotel refrigerator we found our salads and a basket of bread waiting, and we ate in the lounge before retiring to books and finally bed.

Tomorrow we leave for Lucern. While we'll surely miss the beauty and tranquility of this lake, I guess my knees will appreciate the break.